Pilgrimage
By Fr. Jeremy Heppler, O.S.B.
The second of a two-part series from Fr. Jeremy Heppler, O.S.B. about his pilgrimage through the territories and abbeys where St. Benedict and St. Scholastica lived and served.
This article was originally published in our March 2025 Kansas Monks newsletter. Read the whole newsletter at www.kansasmonks.org/newsletter/march2025
Our group at Monte Cassino at the completion of the Cammino di San Benedetto
We are in a very special and holy season. Last month, we celebrated the Feast of St. Scholastica (Feb. 10). This month, we Benedictines celebrate the Solemnity of the Passing of our Holy Father Benedict (Mar. 21).
In last month’s newsletter, I introduced you to the Cammino of St. Benedict and to some of the lessons I learned on this pilgrimage, especially journeying with the saints. This month, the focus will be more on walking specifically with Benedict and Scholastica at the holy sites related to them.
the tomb of Sts. Benedict in Scholastica under the main altar at Monte Cassino
We began the 16-day cammino in the town of Norcia, the birthplace of the holy twins. It was not, though, until we were about halfway through the journey that we entered the heart of Benedictine territory. To make that journey more alive, I read the sections of The Life of St. Benedict according to St. Gregory the Great corresponding to where we were. Thus, I also was able to walk with this great pope, his monks, the other figures mentioned in The Life.
At the end of the first half of the cammino was our longest day of walking (over 22 miles). In the middle of the pilgrimage, the large blisters across the ball of each of my feet was a constant reminder that this was a pilgrimage, not a vacation. By mid-morning, we arrived in Vicovaro. After leaving his studies in Rome, Benedict fled to a cave above Subiaco to live as a hermit. Eventually, a group of monks recruited him to be their abbot, bringing him to Vicovaro. But, not liking the way of life Benedict demanded, the monks tried to poison him. The ruins and caves are on a cliff above the Aniene River. The beautiful church of San Cosimato, which was decorated for a wedding when we visited, is situated above the ruins. The contrast between the joyous decorations for the wedding and the simplicity of the caves, one of which had an ancient painting of the attempted poisoning, served as a good reminder of how God is truly with us “in good times and in bad, in sickness and in health.”
Later that day, one of the great surprises of the trip occurred when Steve and I went into the town of Agosta in search of a spring to refill our water. Instead, we arrived as the town’s annual procession carrying the statue of the Madonna del Passo, along with banners, bands and even fireworks, was about to begin. We were so excited to have been present for this very local experience that we forgot to locate the spring. Oops.
A few hours later, we arrived in Subiaco. When Benedict came back to Subiaco after his Vicovaro experience, he ultimately established 13 monasteries in the area. We stayed at the guest house for Santa Scholastica Abbey, which is situated above the town. The long walk that day gave us an extra day in Subiaco to explore and recover.
in Monte Cassino’s Blessed Sacrament Chapel painting of St. Benedict receiving his last Communion
The next morning, we walked about a mile to San Benedetto Abbey for a tour of the sacred space. Many precious paintings tell stories from The Life or from other events important to our faith and to the area. One such is the painting of the famous story of Maur walking on water, pulling drowning Placid back to safety. After spending days walking near the Aniene River, seeing how quickly it flowed at points, this story took on a new life as I looked down at the steep path monks would have needed to take to get to the water. Across from this painting is the sacro speco, St. Benedict’s hermitage cave. Even more than looking at the art, the highlight of the day was praying in that holy place and saying Mass at the chapel just across from the cave.
A week later, the last stage of the cammino took us to Monte Cassino. Just before the last major climb of the walk we came across the ancient sanctuary of Madonna delle Grazie. This church claims to be at the site where Benedict and Scholastica met throughout the day, and aided by a thunderstorm, and night shortly before Scholastica’s death. Only because I walked the cammino did I, to my surprise, come across the sacred location.
At the top of that last climb, we caught our first glimpse of the Abbey. A few miles later, we arrived at the Polish Cemetery. During WWII, Monte Cassino Abbey was bombed, and the surrounding area was the site of a major battle between the Germans and a division of Poles fighting for in the UK army.
Finally arriving at the Abbey itself, we not only were able to spend time visiting the stunning church and museum, but we also stayed the night in the monastic guest quarters, eating and praying with the monks. Being alone in the piazza after the complex was closed to the public, praying at night at the candlelit tomb of the holy twins, and, most especially, alone in the church kneeling before our Eucharistic Lord with the painting of St. Benedict receiving Communion just before his death above the tabernacle—were my favorite moments at Monte Cassino.
praying in the Sacro Speco at Subiaco
When we returned to Rome, amongst other places we were able to visit San Benedetto in Piscincula, which claims to have been built at the location where he lived while studying, the Basilica of St. Paul’s Outside the Walls, which is entrusted to the care of the Benedictines, and Sant’ Anselmo, where we were able to visit with Fr. Joseph, who was with us for the first few stages, and our Fr. Daniel.
Throughout the trip, and especially at Sacre Speco and at the tomb of Sts. Benedict and Scholastica, I prayed for our monks, all Benedictines, the oblates, those associated with our apostolates, those who asked me to pray for them, and for you. This pilgrimage brought me into a deeper relationship with God through St. Benedict, the other saints we encountered, and my travel companions. I would recommend visiting these the holy sites and, for the adventurous, hiking this cammino.
